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Can I run 125khz RF circuit on a breadboard?
CharliePlexing on a breadboardCan a switching power supply be built on a breadboard?Transfering Circuit from Veroboard to BreadboardBreadboard Quality questionsSchematic to breadboard circuitPIC Breadboard Circuit QuestionInconsistent behavior from circuit on breadboardCan I program a Breadboard with a laptop?Circuit to BreadboardCan I use the oscillation frequency equation for this circuit?
$begingroup$
I was wondering if making low frequency RF circuit on a breadboard is viable.
rf breadboard
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add a comment |
$begingroup$
I was wondering if making low frequency RF circuit on a breadboard is viable.
rf breadboard
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beginner is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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$begingroup$
In a laboratory exercise i once built an 100MHz sine wave oscillator on a breadboard. We even added a mini jack to it and modulated it with music playing it on a handheld radio. It worked like a charm. I don't see any problem in 125kHz, just make sure to take care of the wiring.
$endgroup$
– Linkyyy
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
By breadboard, do you mean a solderless breadboard? Or soldered protoboard?
$endgroup$
– Toor
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I was wondering if making low frequency RF circuit on a breadboard is viable.
rf breadboard
New contributor
beginner is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
$endgroup$
I was wondering if making low frequency RF circuit on a breadboard is viable.
rf breadboard
rf breadboard
New contributor
beginner is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
beginner is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
beginner is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 7 hours ago
beginnerbeginner
263
263
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beginner is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
beginner is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
beginner is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
$begingroup$
In a laboratory exercise i once built an 100MHz sine wave oscillator on a breadboard. We even added a mini jack to it and modulated it with music playing it on a handheld radio. It worked like a charm. I don't see any problem in 125kHz, just make sure to take care of the wiring.
$endgroup$
– Linkyyy
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
By breadboard, do you mean a solderless breadboard? Or soldered protoboard?
$endgroup$
– Toor
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
In a laboratory exercise i once built an 100MHz sine wave oscillator on a breadboard. We even added a mini jack to it and modulated it with music playing it on a handheld radio. It worked like a charm. I don't see any problem in 125kHz, just make sure to take care of the wiring.
$endgroup$
– Linkyyy
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
By breadboard, do you mean a solderless breadboard? Or soldered protoboard?
$endgroup$
– Toor
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
In a laboratory exercise i once built an 100MHz sine wave oscillator on a breadboard. We even added a mini jack to it and modulated it with music playing it on a handheld radio. It worked like a charm. I don't see any problem in 125kHz, just make sure to take care of the wiring.
$endgroup$
– Linkyyy
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
In a laboratory exercise i once built an 100MHz sine wave oscillator on a breadboard. We even added a mini jack to it and modulated it with music playing it on a handheld radio. It worked like a charm. I don't see any problem in 125kHz, just make sure to take care of the wiring.
$endgroup$
– Linkyyy
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
By breadboard, do you mean a solderless breadboard? Or soldered protoboard?
$endgroup$
– Toor
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
By breadboard, do you mean a solderless breadboard? Or soldered protoboard?
$endgroup$
– Toor
5 hours ago
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
In my experience, yes, but you may need to take a few things into account.
- Some breadboards are better than others. The maximum frequency I've seen operating cleanly and reliably on a breadboard is 2 MHz. I've also seen breadboards that couldn't handle 200 kHz.
- You need to consider the maximum frequency present on the breadboard, not the largest "fundamental" frequency. For instance, a square wave signal (such as a clock or the 555's output) have very large harmonics up to maybe 5 or 7 times their fundamental frequency. If the breadboard can't handle these, then the clock will become distorted (low-pass filtered); additionally, if those harmonics spread through the breadboard, they'll distort potentially all your signals.
- Bypass capacitors become important as the frequency increases. Put one cap everwhere a circuit connects to the supply or ground, and you may have to sprinkle them around wherever high-frequency harmonics appear.
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
I bought a bunch of electrolytic and ceramic caps with a 0.1" lead distance to sprinkle on breadboards, especially useful to place between the rails.
$endgroup$
– pipe
6 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
I've seen 2kHz circuits fail on breadboards. Of course, that was done by someone who was in the process of getting a clue that big loopy wires may not be the best thing in an analog circuit.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott That's an excellent point that I forgot to include. You need very neat wiring with short cables and leads if you want a high-frequency breadboard circuit to work.
$endgroup$
– MBaz
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott I've been that someone when I first built a circuit at school. :)
$endgroup$
– Graham
3 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
If you are insanely attentive to layout, yes. That means:
- Bypass everything with as short of wires as you can,
- Lay your wires down flat on the board (which pretty much means you'll be doing a lot of bending and possibly custom-cutting of wires). Big loops will kill you for sure.
- Be willing to use twisted-pair, or even small coax to go from one "major" stage to the next (i.e., if you're putting multiple breadboards together, use transmission line).
- Position your components so that the sensitive connections are short.
- And, of course, everything that I left out.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Note that there are sets of pre-cut and pre-isolated wires with different breadboard-friendly lengths.
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
4 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer true. I've always felt it's more convenient to get a few rolls of 24-gauge solid wire and cut and strip as needed, rather than digging around in a box. But -- to each their own.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
4 hours ago
$begingroup$
Not meaning to criticize – I found this info useful for the OP. There are also sets with colour-coded and separated wire-lengths so that it’s not so much digging as grabbing exactly what you need. If you’re comfortable with cutting and stripping wire (I always get the length wrong), that’s probably overkill though :)
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
3 hours ago
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer I wasn't meaning to criticize, either -- just pointing out that there's an alternative. I tend do do things slightly different than other people's preferences, so I'm not about to be the first one to step up and say that it's wrong to be different.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
3 hours ago
add a comment |
Your Answer
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
In my experience, yes, but you may need to take a few things into account.
- Some breadboards are better than others. The maximum frequency I've seen operating cleanly and reliably on a breadboard is 2 MHz. I've also seen breadboards that couldn't handle 200 kHz.
- You need to consider the maximum frequency present on the breadboard, not the largest "fundamental" frequency. For instance, a square wave signal (such as a clock or the 555's output) have very large harmonics up to maybe 5 or 7 times their fundamental frequency. If the breadboard can't handle these, then the clock will become distorted (low-pass filtered); additionally, if those harmonics spread through the breadboard, they'll distort potentially all your signals.
- Bypass capacitors become important as the frequency increases. Put one cap everwhere a circuit connects to the supply or ground, and you may have to sprinkle them around wherever high-frequency harmonics appear.
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
I bought a bunch of electrolytic and ceramic caps with a 0.1" lead distance to sprinkle on breadboards, especially useful to place between the rails.
$endgroup$
– pipe
6 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
I've seen 2kHz circuits fail on breadboards. Of course, that was done by someone who was in the process of getting a clue that big loopy wires may not be the best thing in an analog circuit.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott That's an excellent point that I forgot to include. You need very neat wiring with short cables and leads if you want a high-frequency breadboard circuit to work.
$endgroup$
– MBaz
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott I've been that someone when I first built a circuit at school. :)
$endgroup$
– Graham
3 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
In my experience, yes, but you may need to take a few things into account.
- Some breadboards are better than others. The maximum frequency I've seen operating cleanly and reliably on a breadboard is 2 MHz. I've also seen breadboards that couldn't handle 200 kHz.
- You need to consider the maximum frequency present on the breadboard, not the largest "fundamental" frequency. For instance, a square wave signal (such as a clock or the 555's output) have very large harmonics up to maybe 5 or 7 times their fundamental frequency. If the breadboard can't handle these, then the clock will become distorted (low-pass filtered); additionally, if those harmonics spread through the breadboard, they'll distort potentially all your signals.
- Bypass capacitors become important as the frequency increases. Put one cap everwhere a circuit connects to the supply or ground, and you may have to sprinkle them around wherever high-frequency harmonics appear.
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
I bought a bunch of electrolytic and ceramic caps with a 0.1" lead distance to sprinkle on breadboards, especially useful to place between the rails.
$endgroup$
– pipe
6 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
I've seen 2kHz circuits fail on breadboards. Of course, that was done by someone who was in the process of getting a clue that big loopy wires may not be the best thing in an analog circuit.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott That's an excellent point that I forgot to include. You need very neat wiring with short cables and leads if you want a high-frequency breadboard circuit to work.
$endgroup$
– MBaz
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott I've been that someone when I first built a circuit at school. :)
$endgroup$
– Graham
3 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
In my experience, yes, but you may need to take a few things into account.
- Some breadboards are better than others. The maximum frequency I've seen operating cleanly and reliably on a breadboard is 2 MHz. I've also seen breadboards that couldn't handle 200 kHz.
- You need to consider the maximum frequency present on the breadboard, not the largest "fundamental" frequency. For instance, a square wave signal (such as a clock or the 555's output) have very large harmonics up to maybe 5 or 7 times their fundamental frequency. If the breadboard can't handle these, then the clock will become distorted (low-pass filtered); additionally, if those harmonics spread through the breadboard, they'll distort potentially all your signals.
- Bypass capacitors become important as the frequency increases. Put one cap everwhere a circuit connects to the supply or ground, and you may have to sprinkle them around wherever high-frequency harmonics appear.
$endgroup$
In my experience, yes, but you may need to take a few things into account.
- Some breadboards are better than others. The maximum frequency I've seen operating cleanly and reliably on a breadboard is 2 MHz. I've also seen breadboards that couldn't handle 200 kHz.
- You need to consider the maximum frequency present on the breadboard, not the largest "fundamental" frequency. For instance, a square wave signal (such as a clock or the 555's output) have very large harmonics up to maybe 5 or 7 times their fundamental frequency. If the breadboard can't handle these, then the clock will become distorted (low-pass filtered); additionally, if those harmonics spread through the breadboard, they'll distort potentially all your signals.
- Bypass capacitors become important as the frequency increases. Put one cap everwhere a circuit connects to the supply or ground, and you may have to sprinkle them around wherever high-frequency harmonics appear.
answered 6 hours ago
MBazMBaz
34816
34816
1
$begingroup$
I bought a bunch of electrolytic and ceramic caps with a 0.1" lead distance to sprinkle on breadboards, especially useful to place between the rails.
$endgroup$
– pipe
6 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
I've seen 2kHz circuits fail on breadboards. Of course, that was done by someone who was in the process of getting a clue that big loopy wires may not be the best thing in an analog circuit.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott That's an excellent point that I forgot to include. You need very neat wiring with short cables and leads if you want a high-frequency breadboard circuit to work.
$endgroup$
– MBaz
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott I've been that someone when I first built a circuit at school. :)
$endgroup$
– Graham
3 hours ago
add a comment |
1
$begingroup$
I bought a bunch of electrolytic and ceramic caps with a 0.1" lead distance to sprinkle on breadboards, especially useful to place between the rails.
$endgroup$
– pipe
6 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
I've seen 2kHz circuits fail on breadboards. Of course, that was done by someone who was in the process of getting a clue that big loopy wires may not be the best thing in an analog circuit.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott That's an excellent point that I forgot to include. You need very neat wiring with short cables and leads if you want a high-frequency breadboard circuit to work.
$endgroup$
– MBaz
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott I've been that someone when I first built a circuit at school. :)
$endgroup$
– Graham
3 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
I bought a bunch of electrolytic and ceramic caps with a 0.1" lead distance to sprinkle on breadboards, especially useful to place between the rails.
$endgroup$
– pipe
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I bought a bunch of electrolytic and ceramic caps with a 0.1" lead distance to sprinkle on breadboards, especially useful to place between the rails.
$endgroup$
– pipe
6 hours ago
3
3
$begingroup$
I've seen 2kHz circuits fail on breadboards. Of course, that was done by someone who was in the process of getting a clue that big loopy wires may not be the best thing in an analog circuit.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I've seen 2kHz circuits fail on breadboards. Of course, that was done by someone who was in the process of getting a clue that big loopy wires may not be the best thing in an analog circuit.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott That's an excellent point that I forgot to include. You need very neat wiring with short cables and leads if you want a high-frequency breadboard circuit to work.
$endgroup$
– MBaz
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott That's an excellent point that I forgot to include. You need very neat wiring with short cables and leads if you want a high-frequency breadboard circuit to work.
$endgroup$
– MBaz
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott I've been that someone when I first built a circuit at school. :)
$endgroup$
– Graham
3 hours ago
$begingroup$
@TimWescott I've been that someone when I first built a circuit at school. :)
$endgroup$
– Graham
3 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
If you are insanely attentive to layout, yes. That means:
- Bypass everything with as short of wires as you can,
- Lay your wires down flat on the board (which pretty much means you'll be doing a lot of bending and possibly custom-cutting of wires). Big loops will kill you for sure.
- Be willing to use twisted-pair, or even small coax to go from one "major" stage to the next (i.e., if you're putting multiple breadboards together, use transmission line).
- Position your components so that the sensitive connections are short.
- And, of course, everything that I left out.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Note that there are sets of pre-cut and pre-isolated wires with different breadboard-friendly lengths.
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
4 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer true. I've always felt it's more convenient to get a few rolls of 24-gauge solid wire and cut and strip as needed, rather than digging around in a box. But -- to each their own.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
4 hours ago
$begingroup$
Not meaning to criticize – I found this info useful for the OP. There are also sets with colour-coded and separated wire-lengths so that it’s not so much digging as grabbing exactly what you need. If you’re comfortable with cutting and stripping wire (I always get the length wrong), that’s probably overkill though :)
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
3 hours ago
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer I wasn't meaning to criticize, either -- just pointing out that there's an alternative. I tend do do things slightly different than other people's preferences, so I'm not about to be the first one to step up and say that it's wrong to be different.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
3 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
If you are insanely attentive to layout, yes. That means:
- Bypass everything with as short of wires as you can,
- Lay your wires down flat on the board (which pretty much means you'll be doing a lot of bending and possibly custom-cutting of wires). Big loops will kill you for sure.
- Be willing to use twisted-pair, or even small coax to go from one "major" stage to the next (i.e., if you're putting multiple breadboards together, use transmission line).
- Position your components so that the sensitive connections are short.
- And, of course, everything that I left out.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Note that there are sets of pre-cut and pre-isolated wires with different breadboard-friendly lengths.
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
4 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer true. I've always felt it's more convenient to get a few rolls of 24-gauge solid wire and cut and strip as needed, rather than digging around in a box. But -- to each their own.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
4 hours ago
$begingroup$
Not meaning to criticize – I found this info useful for the OP. There are also sets with colour-coded and separated wire-lengths so that it’s not so much digging as grabbing exactly what you need. If you’re comfortable with cutting and stripping wire (I always get the length wrong), that’s probably overkill though :)
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
3 hours ago
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer I wasn't meaning to criticize, either -- just pointing out that there's an alternative. I tend do do things slightly different than other people's preferences, so I'm not about to be the first one to step up and say that it's wrong to be different.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
3 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
If you are insanely attentive to layout, yes. That means:
- Bypass everything with as short of wires as you can,
- Lay your wires down flat on the board (which pretty much means you'll be doing a lot of bending and possibly custom-cutting of wires). Big loops will kill you for sure.
- Be willing to use twisted-pair, or even small coax to go from one "major" stage to the next (i.e., if you're putting multiple breadboards together, use transmission line).
- Position your components so that the sensitive connections are short.
- And, of course, everything that I left out.
$endgroup$
If you are insanely attentive to layout, yes. That means:
- Bypass everything with as short of wires as you can,
- Lay your wires down flat on the board (which pretty much means you'll be doing a lot of bending and possibly custom-cutting of wires). Big loops will kill you for sure.
- Be willing to use twisted-pair, or even small coax to go from one "major" stage to the next (i.e., if you're putting multiple breadboards together, use transmission line).
- Position your components so that the sensitive connections are short.
- And, of course, everything that I left out.
answered 6 hours ago
TimWescottTimWescott
6,1451415
6,1451415
$begingroup$
Note that there are sets of pre-cut and pre-isolated wires with different breadboard-friendly lengths.
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
4 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer true. I've always felt it's more convenient to get a few rolls of 24-gauge solid wire and cut and strip as needed, rather than digging around in a box. But -- to each their own.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
4 hours ago
$begingroup$
Not meaning to criticize – I found this info useful for the OP. There are also sets with colour-coded and separated wire-lengths so that it’s not so much digging as grabbing exactly what you need. If you’re comfortable with cutting and stripping wire (I always get the length wrong), that’s probably overkill though :)
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
3 hours ago
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer I wasn't meaning to criticize, either -- just pointing out that there's an alternative. I tend do do things slightly different than other people's preferences, so I'm not about to be the first one to step up and say that it's wrong to be different.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
3 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Note that there are sets of pre-cut and pre-isolated wires with different breadboard-friendly lengths.
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
4 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer true. I've always felt it's more convenient to get a few rolls of 24-gauge solid wire and cut and strip as needed, rather than digging around in a box. But -- to each their own.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
4 hours ago
$begingroup$
Not meaning to criticize – I found this info useful for the OP. There are also sets with colour-coded and separated wire-lengths so that it’s not so much digging as grabbing exactly what you need. If you’re comfortable with cutting and stripping wire (I always get the length wrong), that’s probably overkill though :)
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
3 hours ago
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer I wasn't meaning to criticize, either -- just pointing out that there's an alternative. I tend do do things slightly different than other people's preferences, so I'm not about to be the first one to step up and say that it's wrong to be different.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
3 hours ago
$begingroup$
Note that there are sets of pre-cut and pre-isolated wires with different breadboard-friendly lengths.
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
4 hours ago
$begingroup$
Note that there are sets of pre-cut and pre-isolated wires with different breadboard-friendly lengths.
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
4 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer true. I've always felt it's more convenient to get a few rolls of 24-gauge solid wire and cut and strip as needed, rather than digging around in a box. But -- to each their own.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
4 hours ago
$begingroup$
@JonasSchäfer true. I've always felt it's more convenient to get a few rolls of 24-gauge solid wire and cut and strip as needed, rather than digging around in a box. But -- to each their own.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
4 hours ago
$begingroup$
Not meaning to criticize – I found this info useful for the OP. There are also sets with colour-coded and separated wire-lengths so that it’s not so much digging as grabbing exactly what you need. If you’re comfortable with cutting and stripping wire (I always get the length wrong), that’s probably overkill though :)
$endgroup$
– Jonas Schäfer
3 hours ago
$begingroup$
Not meaning to criticize – I found this info useful for the OP. There are also sets with colour-coded and separated wire-lengths so that it’s not so much digging as grabbing exactly what you need. If you’re comfortable with cutting and stripping wire (I always get the length wrong), that’s probably overkill though :)
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– Jonas Schäfer
3 hours ago
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@JonasSchäfer I wasn't meaning to criticize, either -- just pointing out that there's an alternative. I tend do do things slightly different than other people's preferences, so I'm not about to be the first one to step up and say that it's wrong to be different.
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– TimWescott
3 hours ago
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@JonasSchäfer I wasn't meaning to criticize, either -- just pointing out that there's an alternative. I tend do do things slightly different than other people's preferences, so I'm not about to be the first one to step up and say that it's wrong to be different.
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– TimWescott
3 hours ago
add a comment |
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In a laboratory exercise i once built an 100MHz sine wave oscillator on a breadboard. We even added a mini jack to it and modulated it with music playing it on a handheld radio. It worked like a charm. I don't see any problem in 125kHz, just make sure to take care of the wiring.
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– Linkyyy
6 hours ago
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By breadboard, do you mean a solderless breadboard? Or soldered protoboard?
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– Toor
5 hours ago